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Hair damage is a growing concern among consumers. Search the hashtag #HairDamage on TikTok and you’ll find 282.8 million videos tackling issues ranging from split ends to reduced volume and shine.
There are a variety of reasons for this. For example, more people are choosing longer hair styles, as well as colour treatments.
The impact of pollution and hair styling tools are other factors. And because of this, we’re seeing an increase in the number of hair care products people use, as well as a growing demand for solutions that repair hair damage.
Share of basket is also on the rise, with Nielsen Research reporting that the world’s top nine markets for hair care products have seen sales of products that manage damage rising €139 million year on year from 2022 to 2023.
“Hair is the ultimate asset of self-expression,” says R&D Hair Fibre Care specialist Stephen Maguire. “But achieving your desired hair style is also dependent on the condition your hair is in.”
Hair is made up of 90% keratin protein, 7% water and 3% lipids.
“Each hair fibre has two main parts: the cuticle on the outside and the cortex on the inside, which is made of keratin strands bonded together throughout the length of the fibre,” Stephen explains.
“Keratin gives hair its strength, shape and movement. When hair is damaged by factors like heat, chemical treatments and environmental pollution, these protein bonds can break. This weakens the structure of the internal hair fibre and in turn the strength and condition of your hair.
“Historically, damage repair technologies only worked on the hair surface by masking the signs of damage,” Stephen says.
“Unilever R&D discovered a way that you could put things inside that hair fibre to repair it internally. We launched our first Fibre Active Repair Technology in Dove’s Intensive Repair products over a decade ago. Since then, we have been a pioneer in internal hair repair,” he adds.
Today, Fibre Active Repair Technology is in a range of Unilever’s hair care products such as Dove, Nexxus, TRESemmé, Sunsilk and SheaMoisture. It features in shampoos, conditioners, and serums, including rinse-off and leave-on treatments.
“Fibre Active Repair Technology rebuilds the protein bonds inside the hair fibre and improves the hair’s resilience to damage,” Stephen explains.
“It does this through a unique blend of molecules which act as protein chaperones. These penetrate deep into the hair fibres and create new bonds to replace damaged bonds inside the hair.”
The latest innovation to benefit from Unilever’s world-class research is Dove’s Bond Repair (known as Dove Bond Strength in the US).
This new range of advanced bond-strengthening products includes three active patented technologies.
Powered by Bio-Protein Care + Peptides, it works in harmony with your hair’s biology to visibly repair and restore the signs of extreme damage, resulting in stronger, smoother and shinier hair.
In the first 100 days of its launch in the US, sales of Dove Bond Strength exceeded sales expectations across major retailers, and the range enjoyed the same success with its launch in Brazil.
But strengthening hair from the inside is just one part the Unilever R&D hair repair story.
“Total fibre care requires technologies that repair the fibre internally and externally,” Stephen adds.
When hair is damaged, the hair fibre’s surface becomes more hydrophilic, which means it is more porous to water. And this makes it harder for surface repair treatments to work.
“Our breakthrough Fibre Shield technology intelligently deposits on the hair surface,” says Stephen. “In short, it specifically targets those areas which have more damage.”
“When Fibre Shield is used in conditioners and rinse-off treatments, it helps the hair surface repel water again, restoring the fibre surface properties and reversing symptoms of damage,” he explains.
The technology has been used in the new Dove Bond Strength range to create Dove 10-in-1 Bond Strength Serum Mask.
Designed as a weekly treatment, it uses a patented peptide complex to fortify hair bonds and help reverse ten visible signs of damage. When the mask is left on the hair for a minute, it can transform extremely damaged hair and make it ten times stronger, softer and smoother.
We launched our first Fibre Active Repair Technology in Dove’s Intensive Repair products over a decade ago. Since then, we have been a pioneer in internal hair repair.
Stephen Maguire, R&D Hair Fibre Care specialist
Consumer hair habits are evolving. “We’re seeing a growing number of people increase the steps in their hair care routines,” says Stephen.
“We’re innovating at pace to ensure we continue to develop technologies that address consumer needs to strengthen and protect hair from the inside out.”
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